Around the World in Eighty Pieces – #3 Faroe Islands

Tjørnuvík beach (I used a plastic clarinet for this photoshoot to avoid having my wood clarinet in the chilly temps)

Welcome to my new series, Around the World in Eighty Pieces! I’m excited to combine my love of travelling and clarinet repertoire by sharing a clarinet composition I “discovered” in each country.

This series is not meant to be a comprehensive overview of the clarinet music from each country; rather, this is an appetizer to ignite your curiosity to learn more about the music, repertoire, and clarinet cultures of each place.

I love learning about other clarinet music from around the world, so please contact me or leave a comment with other pieces you would like to share.

Background

If we’ve ever spoken IRL, you know that it’s only a matter of time before I bring up the Faroe Islands. This group of 18 islands in the North Atlantic is one of my favorite subjects to talk about, and I’m endlessly fascinated by this otherworldly place.

It all started with an Instagram post several years ago (probably around 2016). I follow several travel bloggers and influencers, and this is how I’ve previously discovered new places to add to my travel bucket list. I stumbled upon a post of the “optical illusion lake” (photo below) in the Faroe Islands. I had never heard of the Faroe Islands before this, but I was captivated by this stunning scene.

Trælanípa, aka the optical illusion lake

Like many of my projects, it all began with a simple question – “What’s the clarinet scene like in the Faroe Islands?” And I began my research.

I spent hours on the Association of Faroese Composers website, where I compiled a draft of music which included clarinet. I began contacting composers and musicians in the Faroe Islands to learn more about their works, and I began researching Faroese history and culture.

This was a hobby project of mine for a few years before I discovered an artist residency located in Tjørnuvík, the northernmost village on the island of Streymoy (where the capital is located). Tjørnuvík has a population of about 60, and I was excited at the prospect of completing a residency here. I quickly applied, detailing my project to create a comprehensive list of Faroese clarinet works. A few weeks later, I received the exciting news that my project had been accepted, and I quickly packed my bags to go to Tjørnuvík.

Research

Once I was settled in my accommodation (a former schoolhouse complete with playground, classroom, library of Faroese books, and cozy living space), I began meeting with clarinetists, musicians, and composers. Everyone was extremely welcoming and willing to share their knowledge for this project. I even got to meet the lead singer of the Týr, a leading Faroese metal band who often includes traditional Faroese kvæði in their music! I was also introduced to the music of Faroese artist Eivør Pálsdóttir (commonly known as just Eivør), and I love her music! (I would love to meet her in person one day!)

View of Tjørnuvík from the surrounding mountains (if you look carefully, you can see the schoolhouse I stayed in – it has the white fence around it)

With a population of around fifty thousand (and more sheep than people!), I was surprised to learn how active and lively the music scene is in the Faroe Islands. The Association of Faroese Composers has an extensive list of composers who actively work with Faroese, Nordic, and international musicians on various projects. There is even an annual Summartónar Festival, featuring Faroese music and musicians. (Since this artist residency, I have been honored to have performed in the 2022 and 2023 Summartónar festivals.)

After my residency, I shared my research in The Clarinet, the official journal of the International Clarinet Association. (Members can log in to read my article online.) Since publication, the list of clarinet repertoire from the Faroe Islands has continued to grow, and I am pleased to contribute to the commissioning and performance of new works by Faroese composers.

The Faroe Islands has an incredibly active music, art, and culture scene, and I’m proud to see it becoming a more popular destination for travel. Atlantic Airways even has a new route from New York to the Faroe Islands, and I highly encourage anyone looking for a hidden gem destination to visit this magical place!

Tórshavn Tinganes, one of the oldest parliaments in the world

Faroese adventures

Having spent several months in Tjørnuvík and exploring some of the 18 islands, I’ve had many adventures during my time in the Faroes. The Faroese are incredibly kind and welcoming, and I’ve experienced this many times during my three visits to the Faroe Islands.

One of my favorite Faroese memories was being invited to the annual sheep shearing in Sjeyndir, a remote village accessible by hiking or boating from Tjørnuvík. There is only one house there, and no electricity.

Faroe Islands roughly translates to sheep islands, and being able to experience a sheep shearing with the Tjørnuvík community has been a highlight of all my travels. We packed a tiny boat full of people before departing from Tjørnuvík dock, and it took all my concentration to disembark on the slippery rocks leading up to Sjeyndir. Several people had left hours earlier to herd hundreds of sheep from the surrounding mountains (the sheep are free-roaming), and it was quite a sight to behold as we worked together to shear the sheep. After we were finished, the sheep were released back into the mountains to roam again.

Another favorite memory was hiking around Mykines, a popular place for puffin-spotting during the summer. This westernmost island has a population of 10, and it’s perilous to access during the winter months due to the rough waters. (Supplies have to be helicoptered in.)

An important part of the Faroese culture is the traditional chain dance, which is used to accompany the kvæði. During a performance at the 2022 Summartónar festival, I was able to participate in a traditional Faroese chain dance in the village of Gjógv, where I had performed. It was incredible to take part in such an important cultural activity (and I learned a few new kvæði!).

My favorite musical memory is performing one of the traditional Faroese ballads (kvæði), arranged for two clarinets, at the 2023 Summartónar festival. We invited the audience to sing along, as the majority of Faroese know the words to the first verses of several of the popular kvæði. It gave me goosebumps to play something so closely linked to Faroese culture and be surrounded by the singing and music, and I’m so lucky to have a recording (you can listen here).

Tørshavn harbor (it’s still chilly here, even in July, when this photo was taken)

There are too many other memories to share here, but the Faroe Islands is one of my favorite places I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. Despite its small size and relative obscurity, there is much to offer and plenty to explore!

I would also be remiss not to mention Jonhedin Trondheim, who’s been an amazing friend since my first trip to the Faroes! He told me that it wouldn’t be long until I was back in the Faroes, and he was right!

Faroese clarinet compositions

Since the subject of Faroese clarinet music is quite niche, it might be safe to say that I’m a leading expert in the subject! Here are just a few of my favorite Faroese clarinet compositions, performed by yours truly.